Espresso machines
Buying a used espresso machine

The one question that matters
Ask what water went into it, and when it was last descaled.
Limescale is what ends most home machines. It coats the heating element, blocks the narrow passages of the group and the solenoid valve, and eventually splits seams from the inside. A machine run for five years on soft filtered water and descaled yearly is barely worn. The same machine on hard tap water, never descaled, is a scrap part with a nice case.
A seller who answers precisely, names the filter and remembers the last descale, is telling you the machine was cared for. A vague answer is your price negotiation and often your reason to leave.
What to check, in order
- Heat it up and pull water through the group. It should run clean and steady, not spit. A weak or noisy pump is replaceable, but it is a bargaining point.
- Open the steam wand. Dry steam, decent pressure, and the valve should close without dripping.
- Look inside the water tank. White crust or a slimy film both tell a story.
- Take the shower screen off if the seller allows it. Caked coffee behind it means no one has cleaned it in years, and whatever that says about the screen it says about the rest.
- Check the portafilter fits and locks near the centre. A handle that sits far past centre means a worn group gasket, which is a five euro part.
- Ask for the model number and search for spare parts before you pay.
Cheap to fix, and not
| Cheap and normal | Walk away |
|---|---|
| Group gasket, shower screen | Corroded or leaking boiler |
| Baskets, portafilter | Cracked boiler seam, water in the base |
| Pump, thermostat | Discontinued control board on an electronic machine |
| Steam valve seals | A brand with no spare parts channel |
| A full descale | Anything the seller cannot switch on |
Machines that age well
Simple machines age best. A lever has no pump and no electronics to speak of. An E61 group is a fifty-year-old design with every part still on sale. A single boiler with a mechanical thermostat can be rebuilt on a kitchen table.
Superautomatics and bean to cup machines age worst: many moving parts, a brew group that wears, and firmware nobody supports after a decade.
Budget the first hundred euros
Whatever you pay, plan on a descale, a new group gasket, a new shower screen and a fresh basket before you judge the machine. Most second hand machines that “pull bad shots” pull good ones after that afternoon of work.
Frequently asked
- What is a fair price second hand?
- Around half the current new price for a well kept machine a few years old, less if it has no service history. Above that you are paying new money for someone else's scale.
- Is a commercial machine a good home buy?
- Only if you have the plumbing, the power and the patience. They are built to be serviced, which is a real advantage, but they also idle at high power all day and need a real drain.
Related reading
Real espresso in twenty centimetres
Small machines used to mean bad espresso. The compact category grew up, and the compromises moved somewhere more sensible.
A commercial machine at home
Power, plumbing, drainage and heat: what a bar machine actually demands of a kitchen, and when the answer is to buy a smaller machine instead.
Bringing a 1970s lever back to life
A fifty-year-old lever machine is mostly brass, a spring and four seals. Here is the order to work in, and the two faults that mean walk away.